Our final month of cruising for the season seemed to fly by in a blur of activity and adventure. After an unforgettable 11-day road trip with our friends Max and Karen, we found ourselves back in La Cruz, hurriedly repacking our bags and filling a big duffle with items to take back to the States. My little brother’s wedding was approaching, and although it was logistically challenging, we managed to make it work. We arranged for Cleo to stay at Casa Lusty while we locked up Avocet for a few days and returned to my hometown of Aptos, California, to celebrate with family.
Upon our return to La Cruz, we had just two days to provision and savor our final moments in our beloved second home. We spent a relaxing pool day with Max, Karen, Nixie, Cameron, and Alex, enjoying each other’s company and mentally preparing for the journey ahead. Chris had a video shoot in LA scheduled in a week, so we needed to sail 500 miles north to Guaymas to haul out and prepare for hurricane season. After three months in Banderas Bay, it was time to move again. We pointed Avocet’s bow north and headed back into the Sea of Cortez. The feeling of movement beneath us was exhilarating, though we knew we would miss our friends down south. Fortunately, we know where to find them next year.
Our first day underway was calm, and I couldn’t resist testing my balance on the bow by doing a bit of hooping. Although my session didn’t last long, it was enough to prove I could do it—and for Chris to snap a few memorable shots. This collapsible hoop might just be my favorite purchase this year! It felt good to feel the movement beneath the keel again, even as our cruising season was drawing to a close. Mother Nature treated us to a spectacular sunset, and we were joined by a few unexpected visitors. While sea birds often bring their own set of challenges (namely poop, and lots of it), I always urge Chris to let them stay for the ride. I enjoy their unusual company, and my superstitious side refuses to take chances—after all, I’m mindful of the fate of the ancient mariner in Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s The Rime of the Ancient Mariner. In the poem, a sailor is condemned after killing an albatross, a bird many mariners believed housed the spirits of deceased sailors. To harm them along with other sea birds was to harm a fellow seafarer.
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So when a pair of blue footed boobies landed on our bow, Chris’s instinct was to shoo them away, but I reminded him of the legend. He granted them permission to hitch a ride, and they stayed with us. There’s always two, rarely three, which leads me to believe one is the spirit of Avocet’s previous owner, who loved this boat deeply, and the other might just be Chris’s dad, coming along for the journey. Chris later admitted to me that as soon as I went down for my watch he tried to scare the birds off, and karma immediately bit him in the butt because he lost his favorite scrub brush in the process. Told you so echoed in his mind.
We arrived at the mouth of Topolobampo around 11 giving us plenty of light to navigate through the channel. Approaching Topolobampo by sea is relatively straightforward, though sailors should be mindful of the tidal currents and shallow areas near the entrance which can result in a pretty spectacular breaking wave. The channel leading into the harbor is well-marked, and the port itself is protected by a long breakwater, providing a safe haven from the sometimes unpredictable conditions of the Sea of Cortez. As you sail in, you’ll be greeted by views of the desert landscape, with the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains forming a striking backdrop. We anchored out in the closest spot to the channel since our stay would not be long. It was very reminiscent of Morro Bay in terms of current and sand-spit scenery, but here it was much, much hotter. It was almost hard to believe we would be back in California’s cool climate within the next week or so.
The journey from Topolobampo to Guaymas was about 35 hours. We planned our departure to ensure we’d arrive in Guaymas at daybreak, but we underestimated just how fast Avocet can be. Departing at 7:00 pm, we expected to maintain a minimum of 5 knots, perfectly timing our arrival with the sunrise. However, Avocet had other plans. She caught every bit of breeze, pushing us at a steady 7 knots, even as we adjusted the sails to try and slow down. Despite our unintentional early arrival, our last sail of the season was nothing short of magical, with a night watch full of shooting stars that bled into a mellow morning breeze.
As the sun rose, we entered the port of Guaymas. The familiar desert landscape of the Sea of Cortez was warm and oddly welcoming which was a change from my last feelings in the area. We lowered Avocet’s sails for the final time, taking deep breaths as we went through the motions, trying not to sob. This process never gets easier. Inside the breakwater, we found our slip in a small marina and immediately got to work. This year, armed with an arsenal of previous experience, we were able to expedite the stowing process for summer… but I will save that for the next blog post.
Reflecting on our season, we’re filled with gratitude for the adventures we’ve had and the friends we’ve made. While it’s time to switch gears and prepare for the future, we eagerly anticipate the next chapter of our cruising life which includes a BIG announcement… but until then, fair winds and following seas!
Marissa (and Chris and Cleo)
Sailing into Guaymas
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