I’ll never forget the feeling of sailing beneath the Golden Gate Bridge, into San Francisco Bay. The sun was shining, and the famous fog stretched its fingers into our horizon that was a mix of city scape and islands. This was our first destination after casting off for cruising, a three day passage north from Southern California, riding a southerly wind all the way there. We decided to sail north instead of south towards warmer waters to put our 4 years of boat work to the test, known as a shake down, while also aiming to make new memories in a place near and dear to our hearts.

With all the miles we have put beneath our keel since 2022, it seems odd to be craving Bay Area sailing. Maybe it’s nostalgia that’s fueling the craving; not only was it our first destination as “cruisers” but it’s where Chris cut his teeth “big boat” sailing, growing up sailing out of Berkeley aboard his family’s Mason 43’, Sea Castle. 

Although it’s cold, the politics can be wack, and city verges on claustrophobic, there are so many gems to enjoy in the Bay, which is why it should not be overlooked as proven cruising grounds. Here are some of the reasons (in our opinion) why you should consider cruising the SF Bay: 

Clipper Cove

After our passage north, we found solace in Clipper Cove, located between Treasure and Yerba Buena Island. It was somewhat ironic that this was our first destination on our cruising journey, since many years prior, I had my first overnight anchoring experience aboard Sea Castle with the whole Neely Armada present. Little did I know that eight years later, I would be returning aboard my own boat. 

Considering that there are many shoals and unmarked hazards in “The Bay,” it’s always best to check with local sources regarding the best anchorage entry tactics. Fortunately, Chris’s brother, had written about “the cut” of Clipper Cove on his blog site, which we referenced to vicariously guide us through the shallows to the deep water where we would safely set our hook. Getting into the anchorage definitely proved a bit difficult, especially as a deep-keeled vessel like Avocet with a 6.5’ draft, since a shoal guards most of the entrance at low tide. With that said, sailors will want to wait until the flood current returns, as similar drafted vessels need enough clearance to navigate the channel into the anchorage. Nestled between the two islands, you will find that the cove provides protection from almost all directions (minus the east) and shelters you from the sounds and views of San Francisco – impressive, given the close proximity.

From the air, you will notice that Treasure Island is flat in comparison to Yerba Buena, the island it is loosely connected to by a two way road – that is because Yerba Buena Island is an organic land mass whereas Treasure Island was artificially created. The 400-acre island was built by the Army Corps of Engineers in 1936-37 on the shoals of Yerba Buena in anticipation of the 1939 World Fair. The site of the fair was to later become San Francisco International Airport, but the Navy seized the island in 1942, shortly after World War II began, and it became Treasure Island Naval Station. Pan American World Airways’ Clipper seaplane was commonly used at the time, and for which Clipper Cove gained its name. But that’s only a fragment of this island’s unique (and toxic) history which we uncovered more of during our visit to the Treasure Island Museum ashore. 

Treasure and Yerba Buena Islands are now in the beginning stages of a sustainably designed redevelopment project which will create up to 8,000 residences, open space across three-fourths of TI and much of YBI, and a compact mixed-use commercial center serving island residents. The Clinton Climate Initiative (C40) designated the redevelopment plan as one of only 19 model Climate Positive Projects worldwide. It was awarded LEED-ND Platinum certification, becoming only the 17th in the world to receive the highest designation possible for a green, sustainable development. The American Institute of Architects honored it as a “new urban ecology with innovative sustainable strategie.” Hopefully the artificial island will soon become a destination for Bay Area residents and tourists from around the world to enjoy waterfront promenades that will display public art and offer spectacular views of San Francisco and the Bay.

The (Unofficial) Washed Up Yacht Club is an eclectic group of sailors and boats that come together once a month (or more!) to raft up at Clipper Cove for good old fashion comradery. Funny enough, Chris’s brother was one of the founders of the club way back when they were still sailing aboard their Caliber 28’, Tara, and since his involvement it has tripled in size! We had the pleasure of joining the party during our time there, finding ourselves aboard a Baba 30’ where I met a boat chicken named Boots. The cockpit soon filled with many Washed Up Yachties, some of whom remembered Chris’s brother very well. We happily shared the whereabouts of Prism and her crew then shared our own story of why we decided to sail the “wrong way” and found ourselves in the cockpit of a strangers boat amongst new friends. 

One of our favorite parts about anchoring in Clipper Cove is the accessibility to the surrounding cities. Once the dinghy was easily beached and locked to a tree we walked over to the new ferry station that had just opened March of 2022 in an attempt to entice more visitors to the generally overlooked island. A round trip ride to and from the city was $20 for the two of us, and we felt very VIP as the only passengers aboard both ways. The crew was very kind, welcoming us aboard with big smiles and pleasant conversation.

Our crew of three spent eight days anchored in Clipper Cove, which was longer than expected but all for good reasons. It was protected, easy to get to shore, and a relaxing start to our cruising journey but we knew that it was time to move on to the next adventure. The islands shrank off our stern as we set our course for our new anchorage; another island just west of Treasure Island that we never would have guessed that it would feel so much like our beloved Santa Cruz Island in the south!

Angel Island

Angel Island, the second-largest island in San Francisco Bay, offers stunning vistas and a peaceful escape from the city. After a beautiful beam reach across the Bay, we approached Ayala Cove, where we hoped to raft up with our friends aboard Chalet Mer to avoid the $30/night mooring fee. However, after a few ferry wakes rocked both boats, we decided peace of mind was worth the full price, so we secured our own mooring.

The moorings at Ayala Cove are first-come, first-served with a bow-and-stern tie setup, and the shallow water can be tricky for deep-keeled vessels like Avocet (6.5-foot draft). Luckily, with our friends’ help, we were securely moored and ready to explore.

Angel Island’s beauty is rivaled only by its rich history. From its early discovery by Spanish explorers in 1775 to its transformation into a military outpost during the Civil War, and later, its role as the “Ellis Island of the West” for Asian immigrants, the island’s past is full of fascinating stories. Walking the island, we found remnants of the old military camp, the quarantine station, and the Immigration Station, all telling vivid tales of the people who passed through.

The hiking trails were peaceful, lined with native flora, and the views from the North Ridge Trail were breathtaking, offering glimpses of both Avocet anchored in Ayala Cove and the sprawling cityscape beyond. Chris, having visited as a kid, recalled adventures on a Segway tour, while we now preferred the island’s bike trails to explore the historical sites such as the army barracks, hospital, and immigration station. 

Angel Island exceeded our expectations, with its rich history, serene nature, and unparalleled views. It truly felt like a hidden gem in the heart of the San Francisco Bay, making our time there all the more special before continuing on our cruising journey in the Bay. 

Richardson Bay

It had officially been three weeks since we left our homeport in Ventura, embracing cruising life and all its wild unknowns – like when we would be able to have clean laundry again. Chris was at the helm, desperately trying to bury Avocet’s rail as she made way through San Francisco Bay’s Raccoon straits, making our way to our next anchorage: Richardson Bay.

Richardson Bay is a large bay with loose mud holding and an average depth of 20 feet. The bay is subject to dynamic diurnal tidal cycle so it is best to accommodate for a 6-foot tidal swing. The anchorage is right outside The Richardson Bay Marina and Sausalito waterfront community, which you can access at the public dinghy dock located on Turney Street. Many of the Bay Area sailors warned Chris and I that Richardson Bay was uncomfortably rolly, inspiring us to deploy our beloved FlopStopper roll reducer immediately after we had set our hook. While it is true that the random ferry wakes can create quite the motion (especially in the late hours of the night) we found the anchorage to be very comfortable.

We anchored in 13 feet of water, nestled between two other boats—both seemingly lived aboard, though it wasn’t entirely clear if the owners were present. Richardson Bay’s “anchor-outs” community is well-known, highlighted in various exposés over the years. The situation here is complex, as affordable housing disappears in the Bay Area, leaving many mariners no option but to live aboard. The challenge for anchor-outs is finding legal slips, which are expensive and limited due to regulations. The local government has been trying to enforce a 72-hour anchoring rule, towing and even destroying boats that don’t comply. It’s a controversial issue, with no clear plan for what happens to displaced mariners once their vessels are removed.

The dinghy dock was substantial with short term tie ups on the starboard side and long term tie ups on the port. The portside was full of metal skiffs, barely-inflated-inflatables, and fiberglass dinghies, each one undoubtedly belonging to an anchor out making this the boater version of a parking lot. I’m sure we looked a bit silly with our big blue laundry bag amongst the glitz and glam that surrounded us, but we were on a mission and couldn’t be bothered with peoples inquisitive stares. From the dinghy dock it was a one mile walk to Sunshine Laundromat where we washed and dried all of our laundry for $10. 

Half a mile from the laundromat is an incredible store called Mollie Stone’s Marketthat is the holy grail of health food. Their vast inventory of organic produce, meats, vegan options, health and beauty products, as well as conventional necessities like vitamin-enriched cereals and popular name-brand products was very impressive. Speaking of food, our friend Ben Dove from Out The Gate Sailing Podcast turned us on to most amazing sandwich shop we had ever been to, located inside the unsuspecting Bait and Tackle cornerstone. Davy Jones Deli had an extensive menu, but the “Cali” sandwich caught our attention with the following ingredients listed: Avocado, White Cheddar, Almond Pesto, Spinach, Arugula, Sprouts, Tomato, Balsamic, Lemon, Roasted Garlic and Roasted Red Bell Pepper Sauces. (Im drooling just writing about this sandwich!)

Our time in the Bay wasn’t all about the heavy topic of anchor-outs or boring chores; during our visit, we had a unique opportunity to work with Seaplane Adventures in exchange for some thrilling flights aboard a DeHavilland Beaver seaplane thanks to my college friend Ashley who worked there! I even starred in their safety video, then had the chance to take the wheel and fly over the Bay (with the help of the actual pilot, of course). From the air, we had stunning views of the anchorages and iconic landmarks like the Golden Gate Bridge, providing a rare perspective of the area.

Back at sea level, we prepared to pull anchor and sail to our next anchorage which is arguably where we made the most memories. 

Aquatic Park Cove

“I’m not so sure about this… do another lap” I begged as we came up to the man-made-cove. The entrance was narrow, and the outgoing tide created turbulence. Signs warned incoming boaters to watch out for swimmers. “Why don’t furl the headsail, then motor in with the main up?” I suggested. Chris agreed and we followed suit inside the cove, keeping an eye out for any swimmers. Fortunately, we were the only one of two boats in the anchorage, and most of the swimmers stuck closer to shore… for the time being anyways. With the anchor set in a comfortable 15 feet of water with 7:1 scope, we kicked back to enjoy our new digs.

Aquatic Park Cove is a human-made urban harbor offering a protected area for recreational activities with stunning views of San Francisco. Established in 1929 with the construction of the Aquatic Pier, it provides a unique anchorage experience. Unfortunately, the cove, once a free anchorage, now charges a fee due to the influx of displaced anchor-outs from Richardson Bay. Securing a permit from the Park Service was a bit of a hassle, but for $10, we gained peace of mind knowing our dinghy was safe at the private beach.

Sailing vessels with auxiliary engines are allowed to maneuver slowly in the cove, but keep an eye out for swimmers. Once settled in, we enjoyed the nighttime views of Ghirardelli Square and the romantic cityscape, listening to the sounds of the urban life surrounding us.

During our stay, we finally visited the notorious Alcatraz Island, which had been on my bucket list since childhood. After a chilly morning ferry ride, we arrived at the infamous prison, which once housed dangerous criminals like Al Capone and Frank Morris. Alcatraz’s haunting history, from its origins as a military fort to its time as a maximum-security prison, captivated us. Despite the excitement of exploring the cell blocks and learning about the famous 1962 escape, the on-site experience fell short, with a lackluster audio tour and missing interpretive signs. However, the views of San Francisco and the historic significance made it worth the visit. We ended our adventure at Alcatraz by admiring the island’s lighthouse, the oldest on the West Coast. As we returned to our anchorage, we reflected on our day and enjoyed the unique privilege of living on the water in such a vibrant and historical setting. 

After our three-hour tour on Alcatraz, we were starving. Chris suggested grabbing some food and mushrooms from the ferry terminal, which we had first discovered while anchored in Clipper Cove. With our mushrooms safely tucked away, we made our way to Boudin at Fisherman’s Wharf for some San Francisco sourdough. We indulged in clam chowder bread bowls, garlic bread, and more, relishing every bite before walking it off back to Avocet—but not before I made room for a Ghirardelli sundae, a perfect (albeit lactose-intolerant) end to the day.

The next morning, we decided to bike across the Golden Gate Bridge, a 10.5-mile round trip from our anchorage. Despite my dislike for uphill cycling, the views and the ride were worth it. We crossed the iconic bridge under Karl the Fog’s watchful eye, completing a cool trifecta of sailing under, flying over, and biking across it. On our way back, we visited the San Francisco Maritime Museum, where we met Karnell, a passionate volunteer who gave us an insider’s look at their boat restoration project.

Karnell, who happened to follow us online, showed us the Monterey restoration project and even gave us original and 3D-printed shipbuilding nails as souvenirs. We explored Avocet’s ancestors, including the tall ship Balclutha, admiring the extensive restoration work. As Fleet Week approached, a park ranger warned us to depart before the cove filled up with visitors and boats. With that, we set sail once more, ready for our next adventure in Berkeley before the Fleet Week festivities.

Berkeley

After three weeks of anchoring we decided to flex our yacht club reciprocal privileges and visit the Neely family’s old stomping – or sailing – grounds, replenish our tanks, and pick up some day crew for Fleet Week… but first we had some work to do. 

The familiar sound of a train’s horn echoed as city life surrounded us at the Berkeley Yacht Club, where we had just settled in. As we finished setting up, a familiar voice greeted us—our longtime friend Bob. After catching up and exchanging stories, he biked back to his boat, leaving us to remove our mainsail for measurement. Our trusty, patched sail would soon be replaced with a custom order from Precision Sails, which was exciting, but for now, it was all about the prep work.

Later, we were delighted to reunite with our friend Brian and his dog, Pocket, as well as many other familiar faces from the Berkeley Marina community. Chris and I reminisced about our younger years, walking through the boatyard, recalling memories from his time working on Sea Castle with his father. We also stopped by Desperado, a 1977 Cheoy Lee Offshore 47, looking beautiful after her refit.

As the weekend approached, so did the excitement of Fleet Week, a San Francisco tradition since 1981, featuring air shows and ship parades. Although opinions about the event vary, Chris was eager to relive childhood memories of watching the show, and we invited friends aboard for the festivities. 

The blue skies over the Bay were as inviting as the air was bitter, but set the stage for a wonderful overhead show. During the airshows a no-boat regulation “box” is set up from the city front, to Alcatraz, to the Golden Gate to ensure the safety of event participants and spectators. During the enforcement period, unauthorized persons or vessels are prohibited from entering into, transiting through, or anchoring in the regulated area, unless authorized by the Patrol Commander – which meant we had to be careful where we sailed, especially since the bay was crawling with “Coasties” and Cops in every direction. Woooosh the sound of the planes cutting through the sky filled the air as our crew of five sat wide eyed, grinning ear to ear. There were various planes that participated in the show including the F-35C, the Patriot Jet Team, a United 777 and most notably the Blue Angels but one in particular cemented itself as the undisputed favorite of the day: The Ace Maker T-33.

During our stay in Berkeley, Mama Neely came to visit which meant we had a car to utilize and get some boat chores done including a memorable trip to the famed Berkeley Bowl grocery store.  Berkeley Bowl (which was just a bit out of my bikeable range) is an independent grocery store in Berkeley that sells organic and natural products and is well known for its extensive produce section. It is the promised land for foodies and health food fanatics. There were 13 variants of mushrooms, 6 types of eggplants, and leafy greens as far as the eye could see! Definitely worth the stop.

“Come on, let’s take a ride” Chris said as he finished building out his bike. The Berkeley Turkey’s gobbled in the grass, their gaggle tripled in size since we saw them last. We left a few items off our Berkeley Bowl grocery list that we intended to buy at Trader Joes later – a very weird but specific thing that Chris wanted to check off his “visiting Berkeley list,” since every time his family visited the boat when he was a kid, they would shop at Trader Joes and get a tub of chocolate chip cookies, a tradition that happily spilled over into our relationship with ease. 

Our stay in Berkeley brought back nostalgia for Chris, especially as we biked past Sea Castle’s old slip. Our departure didn’t go perfectly, but with some quick thinking and teamwork, we maneuvered out safely, heading toward our next anchorage.

Horseshoe Cove

The weather was also on brand, being wet and thick, the most authentic shade of grey that blanketed the bay as far as our eyes could see. Avocet was cutting through the dark waters with a bone in her teeth, her sails full and her crew hungry for more. Chris and I both layered up, covering whatever skin was vulnerable to the elements to make our transit to our next and final anchorage bearable. It seemed almost poetic that our final night in the San Francisco Bay was spent anchored next to the iconic Golden Gate Bridge. 

Horseshoe Bay makes for the perfect “welcome” or “departure” anchorage considering its proximity to the gate, with good holding and depths of 10’ – 20’ feet. Since it is relatively far from the regular ferry traffic, there is virtually no wake in comparison to anchorages like Richardson Bay or Aquatic Cove, however since it is vulnerable to the southwest it would not be ideal during any southwest or west swell that makes it through the gate. Additionally,  southwesterly or westerly winds can push wind-driven chop into the cove, making the anchorage uncomfortable/unsafe. You can access the shore using the Presidio Yacht Club Dinghy Dock, located on the north end of the Travis Marina.

After anchoring, we spent the evening cozy below deck with our diesel heater running, enjoying movies and our last dinner in San Francisco Bay. The Golden Gate Bridge illuminated the night sky, with the sounds of traffic drifting to our temporary home but not diminishing the view. 

The next morning brought clear skies, though the chill of autumn air remained. By 7:00 a.m., we were up with the light—a new routine we had embraced while cruising. After coffee, Chris quickly launched the dinghy, and we set off to explore the shore. Walking along the gravel path towards the Coast Guard Station, I couldn’t help but remember visiting this spot as a child, never imagining that years later I’d return with my husband aboard our own boat. 

Surrounded by the beauty of Cavallo Point, we wandered the area before taking an impromptu trail leading us to the Golden Gate Lookout. After a quick bite, we met our friend Ben aboard his beautiful Hallberg Rassy at Travis Marina, catching up before focusing on our own pre-departure tasks. As we motored back to Avocet, we reflected on the beauty of the spot and made a mental note to return one day in the summer. Our time in the Bay had flown by—three weeks filled with adventure, reunions, and exploration—but it was time to move on, leaving the comfort of the Bay for the unknowns beyond the Gate.

That evening, the fog hung over us as we prepared to depart. We pulled the anchor, scrubbing the stubborn bay muck from the chain. With sails set, we made our way towards the Golden Gate Bridge, a rite of passage for many sailors. Having crossed under, over, and across the bridge in various ways during our time here, this moment felt different— Avocet was finally southbound.

Out the Gate and Beyond

As the bridge loomed ahead, the emotions of the moment hit me. I felt tears welling up, a mixture of accomplishment and the inevitable fear that comes with leaving behind something familiar. Chris, smiling from ear to ear, took in the scene, equally wrapped in the significance of the moment. Together, we sailed beneath the iconic bridge, united by the overwhelming emotions of adventure, fear, and excitement.

Sailing in San Francisco Bay was an unforgettable experience, blending the natural beauty of the iconic Golden Gate Bridge, the rich maritime history, and the vibrant city skyline. Each day brought new adventures, from serene anchorages to thrilling winds and currents, all while sharing these moments with old friends and new. The bay became more than just a sailing destination; it was a place where we built lasting memories, embraced challenges, and truly felt the freedom of life on the water. It will always hold a special place in our hearts.Thank you, San Francisco Bay, for everything.

Be sure to check out our YouTube series on our time in the SF Bay!